Delamere Estate Pinot Noir 2023

The 2023 Delamere Estate Pinot Noir arrives with the kind of poise that feels uniquely Tasmanian. It is brisk but not severe, fragrant but not frivolous, a wine shaped by latitude, by maritime climate, and by the clarity that comes from a region still carving its identity on the global stage. The vintage was cool and steady, offering long hang time and slow ripening. That sense of gradual build is felt in every aspect of the wine, which reveals itself not all at once, but in measured detail.

In the glass, it is a pale garnet with flashes of ruby, the kind of colour that speaks of delicacy rather than depth. The nose is precise and lifted, with a purity of red fruit that feels almost alpine. Sour cherry, wild strawberry and cranberry rise first, chased by redcurrant and a flick of raspberry leaf. There is a subtle floral edge, all dried rose and fresh violets, followed by a cool savoury undercurrent. Notes of thyme, bay leaf and crushed dry leaves hover just below the fruit, along with a suggestion of cold stone and graphite. The oak is nearly invisible, lending polish but never speaking above a whisper.

On the palate, the wine is taut and lithe, with bright acidity leading the way. The fruit is vivid but measured, carried by tension rather than flesh. Red cherry and rhubarb drive the mid-palate, supported by a line of citrus peel and a faint herbal crunch that gives the wine its signature edge. Tannins are ultra-fine, sandy rather than grippy, adding length without bulk. There is a light saline twist through the finish, not dominant, but enough to sharpen the wine’s profile and keep it cutting cleanly across the palate. It finishes on a note of pomegranate skin and wet stone, leaving a lasting impression of purity and restraint.

This is not a plush Pinot, and it does not want to be. It is a wine that values focus over roundness, energy over amplitude. In that sense, it is one of the clearest expressions of cool-climate Pinot in the country. The 2023 vintage brings precision without austerity, depth without exaggeration. It is a wine for those who understand that finesse often lives in the space between the notes.

At the table, this wine works best with dishes that echo its freshness and fine detail. Grilled quail with juniper, beetroot tart with goat’s curd, or ocean trout with crispy skin and herb butter would all bring out its best. A delicate cheese like Holy Goat La Luna or a mild ash-ripened bloomy rind would keep things beautifully in tune. Serve it slightly chilled, in a glass that allows for aromatic lift, and let it open in its own time. There is no need for decanting, just a little patience and attention.

The 2023 Delamere Estate Pinot Noir is a wine that whispers rather than announces. It is articulate, elegant and deeply rooted in its place, a bottle that speaks of cold winds, long days and a quiet mastery of craft. It does not compete with louder wines. It simply offers something more refined. A moment of stillness. A true sense of place.