Dark black with a deep red tint at the edge. There is a deep dark fruit right from the outset, a little bit brooding, but with exceptional persistence. Oak is present, but very well integrated. Becomes steadily more lifted on the nose, more rich fruit which emerges behind, just a little chocolate drop or two as well, beautifully harmonious. Chunkier than the various Vosne-Romanee grands crus on retasting but very fine for Corton. The only wine in the range to suggest an oaky element.

The 2018 Corton Grand Cru contains fruit from plots of replanted vines for the first time this year, and also 80% whole bunches. Bertrand de Villaine told me that the blending was done a little later than their other crus. Matured in 100% new oak, it has an attractive bouquet of brambly red fruit, blueberry and scents of crushed stone, all nicely detailed. The palate is taut on the entry with an almost chalky texture and notes of bitter cherries and black currants. Fine symmetry toward the finish. Excellent. (NM)

A notably ripe yet still fresh nose speaks of liqueur-like aromas of plum, black cherry and plenty of earth and floral nuances and in particular violet. The cool, sleek and intense broad-shouldered flavours possess a velvety, even seductive, mid-palate mouthfeel along with good power on the stony, complex and solidly persistent finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. The supporting tannins are ripe and firm and sufficiently dense that this will likely need 15 to 18 years to reach full maturity.