Benanti Etna Bianco 2023

Etna in north-east Sicily is better known for its reds than whites, but the best examples of the latter, made from the local grape Carricante, can be spectacular, somewhere between a Burgundian Aligoté and a top Soave in style. This is totally unoaked, but draws richness from six months of lees' ageing. Stony and intense, with notes of lime, fennel and lemon juice, steely, palate-cleansing acidity and a mineral tang. Best drunk with the Mediterranean sun on your face, but it'll cheer you up in winter too. TIM ATKIN MW

Benantis Etna Bianco from 100% Carricante is a delicately perfumed expression of Carricante with gentle mineral notes, white flowers and light flavours of peach or nectarine. The true protagonist, however, are the carefully dosed volcanic tones of ash and smoke. The bouquet will become even more refined with a year or more of ageing in the bottle. Fresh and round on the palate, great acidity and a saline vein, with a subtle sweetness on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE