(William Kelly) The 2019 La Mission Haut-Brion unwinds in the glass with aromas of inky berry fruit, wild plums and cherries mingled with notions of warm spices, burning embers and creamy new oak. Full-bodied, deep and layered, it's rich and concentrated, with a deep core of fruit, bright acids and fine, powdery tannins. Powerful and tightly wound, this is less sumptuous and demonstrative out of the gates than its sibling Haut-Brion, but I suspect it possesses even greater potential.

Blackcurrants and crushed stones with violets and roses. Earthy and black truffle notes, too. Medium to full body with firm, silky tannins that are layered and attractive, in a muscular and toned fashion. Iodine, ink, earth and bark with wet-vine undertones to the fruit at the end. Reserved and impressive. Best after 2025.

The 2019 La Mission Haut-Brion was picked from September 11 until October 2, and matured in 78% new oak. This has a fragrant nose, very well defined and neatly disguising the 14.6° alcohol. It comes across just a little closed compared to other vintages, perhaps due to tasting in December. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fresh and vibrant. This has a gorgeous texture and real tension toward the finish. Intense rather than powerful, it fans out wonderfully, gaining depth with aeration. An audacious La Mission Haut-Brion, but perhaps not quite within the very top rank of this estate.

Wonderful depth of flavour, a signature of this château that is just so elegant but is always happy to oblige in delivering delightfully sappy, seductive, gently spiced fruit. Cigar box and tobacco notes, floral peony and iris aromatics. Great second wave of aromatics that is striking and increases the density and width of the palate. Oak already feels integrated even at this early stage (JA)