The youngest vines are from1987 and they will be first to be pulled out (161/49 issues). A fresh and lively purple with good depth. There is energy here as well as being sensual. The bouquet is growing in stature. No one fruit takes the lead, but together they build a sensual mid palate, with a few spicy notes to bring up the finish. All perfectly in place and for the long term. Drink from 2032-2040.

The 2022 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru comes from a parcel between Tremblay and Leroy. It has a pleasing strictness on the nose that contrasts with the more flattering Charmes-Chambertin that precedes it. Black cherries, wild strawberries and crushed violets, there is an underlying mineralite that surfaces with aeration and a dab of black olive. The palate is well-balanced, with firm tannins on the entry. This a Les Beaux Monts with depth and volume, cracked black pepper and clove infusing the black fruit. It’s quite dense towards the finish but not sinewy. This is a Vosne-Romanee that I suspect may close up with time in bottle.(NM)

The 2022 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts is another standout this year, mingling aromas of cherries and raspberries with notions of tea-smoked duck and exotic spices in a complex melange. Medium to full-bodied, layered and vibrant, with a concentrated core of fruit underpinned by bright acids, it concludes with a youthfully chalky finish. Harvest at Domaine Dujac began on August 29. At the time, Jeremy Seysses thought of the vintage as potentially reminiscent of 2018 - tasting the wines this winter, he feels that they're more delicate, while also admitting that he was even more cautious about extraction in 2022. Whatever the apposite analogy, the result is clear: a superb portfolio of beautifully balanced wines that unite charm and density. Readers, of course, will be familiar with the outlines of the Dujac approach to producing red Burgundy: organic farming, fermentation with a predominance of whole clusters and elevage in barrels largely sourced from Tonnellerie Remond. None of that seems to have changed in 2022, despite a new winery where stainless steel vats have replaced concrete. The wines retain, nay exalt in, their distinctive identity.(William Kelley)

Note: from a parcel of .73 ha on the Flagey side. Here there is a subtle though not invisible application of wood that still easily allows the airy, cool and restrained aromas of various black berries and cassis, and in particular cherry, floral and a mildly exotic whiff of dried orange peel. The energetic and beautifully well-detailed middleweight flavors are notably finer if less powerful than those of the Charmes while display notably more minerality as well on the compact, serious and built-to-age finale. This is a wine of finesse and refinement and though not especially concentrated, I like the balance as well as the aging potential, which is just as well as more depth would be welcome.