The second release of the MMAD Vineyard label, and off its 1939-planted Blewitt Springs vineyard. About 15% whole bunches, fermented in wood and steel, maturation in concrete and large old French oak. Unlike the 2022 shiraz, this takes time to emerge from the glass. It’s all there, though. There’s a brooding quality at present, with nori, iodine and ferrous notes filtering up through dark red cherry, plum, raspberry and sultry florals. Some spicy, musky characters emerge with air. Tannin is a meaningful factor, a pleasingly natural grape-derived affair, rugged but never rustic. A seriously compelling wine, and further proof of how thrilling McLaren Vale grenache is right now, for both its quality and the unparalleled diversity in top-flight expressions.

A sumptuously perfumed grenache with no shortage of structural exactitude and the tension that comes with it. Lilacs, tapenade, raspberry coulis, freshly picked strawberries and anise. Dried lavender and rosemary are bound to the tannic latticework. Salty and nourishing, with the warmth of umami across the long finish.