The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is impeccable and classy. Ripe red fruits, flowers and minerals are some of the nuances that emerge from this fresh, vibrant wine. The fruit remains incredibly youthful and pure all the way through to the finish. This is a surprisingly supple, fruit-driven style of Riserva from Biondi-Santi, and with time in the glass the reluctant bouquet finally emerges. Some of the explosiveness of the best vintages (such as 2001) is missing, but the wine nevertheless impresses for its finesse and impeccable overall balance. The 2004 Riserva looks to have a long life ahead of it, but it is so harmonious that opening a bottle in its youth, while not optimal, is far from infanticide. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Biondi-Santi this year. Of course, Biondi-Santi is the estate that put Brunello di Montalcino on the map, so it is nice to see this historic property doing so well. These remain some of the most rigorous, age-worthy Brunellos readers will come across. Traditional vinification and aging in large, neutral casks are the rule. Ideally the wines are best left in the cellar for at least a decade after release, but readers will have a very hard time exercising such restraint here. These are magnifice(more...)

The excellent 2004 vintage shines through in this traditional expression of Brunello. Biond-Santi's wines speak highly of the territory they come from. The acidity and tight berry flavors recall the hillside vineyards at Il Greppo and the aromatic complexity shows the best of Montalcino. The wine is fine, elegant, sophisticated and built to last. *cellar selection*