Domaine Brusset’s home and winery are in the village of Cairanne. In 2016, Cairanne became the 17th cru village in the Rhône Valley, to the great satisfaction of the producers in the village. Laurent is president of the Cairanne Growers' Association (Syndicat des Vignerons de Cairanne) and he assures me that it was worth all the trouble. It’s not easy to get the “cru” recognition.
Today, Domaine Brusset has 70 hectares of vineyards divided into five different appellations: Cairanne, Gigondas, Rasteau, Ventoux and Côtes-du-Rhône. “Four generations have developed the property. Our strength is that we own everything,”says Laurent. “We make wine from different appellations, but everything is our own vineyards.”
Brusset’s “Laurent B.” is an appealing blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, and Mourvedre from stony, clay- and limestone-rich soil. The craggy, rocky “Dentelles de Montmirail” - Montmirail meaning ‘admirable mountain’ - form the backdrop to Brusset vineyards, some of Gigondas’ best. The steep terraced vineyards mean hand-harvesting is mandatory and mechanization is kept to a minimum. Fruit is vinified by variety in small lots, then matured in vats for six months before blending.
Rich, round, and warm, this is a medium-bodied Côtes du Rhône with easy, moderate tannins and well-balanced acidity. Spicy red fruit lays over an elegant, supple texture. Enjoyable now, it will maintain its style as a tasty, cozy little wine over the next five to six years. Definitely a find, and a gem at the price.
Laurent makes 60,000 bottles of this delicious and affordable Côtes du Rhône where 60% grenache is blended with carignan and mourvèdre. The style is relatively light, with pleasant fruit aromas and good length. It is refreshing and easy-drinking.