Good colour with a purple tint; gamy, tomato-bush and stalky aromas, showing some mellow developed complexity and some vegetal undertones. The wine is chewy and dense in the mouth with a hint of roasted meats. The tannins are rather chewy on the finish and aftertaste but it comes into its own with protein, even a piece of cheese makes a big difference. 11 Jan 2023 Drink 2024–2034

I remember a time when the Margaret was $40AUD. As a drinker, I knew it was too cheap (we all did), and I'd buy it at every opportunity. The price has risen considerably within the last decade, and to be perfectly honest, it's probably a little closer now to where it belongs. It's a strong Cabernet Sauvignon-led blend: 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 8% Malbec. On the nose, this 2019 Margaret Woodlands Vineyard speaks of fresh leather, licorice, star anise, clove, brine, sage, burnt butter, black tea and chewing tobacco. The wine, due to the cool season, has a distinct levity on the palate, and it is delicate and fine yet lingering too. Very good.

Woodlands was established by David and Heather Watson in 1973, and it's an important boutique producer (in the Wilyabrup area) in Margaret River. The Watson family are well known for their love of premium Bordeaux (drinking and collecting), and keeping this in mind while tasting their Cabernets gives much context to the style. While the wines are absolutely "of place," they are also more structural and oak driven than many of the blue-chip Cabernet offerings in the region, and this holds them in very good stead in the cellar. I have a collection of the 2004s and the 2014s (among others), and I periodically open them to remind mys(more...)