Gotta love a wine that unfolds slowly over time, what you first sniff and taste is subtly different to what you sniff and taste an hour, half a day, a day, later. My notes for John Riddoch came in two acts, two tastings over two days. I am sure there could be a lot more acts, indeed, a full play waiting to be discovered in this outstanding example of Coonawarra Cabernet. There’s no shying away from what it is, there is a noteworthy herbal presence throughout and rich layers of black fruits and berries, vanilla and gentle spice. The rising, aromatic florals, led by violet, lift the wine, the earthy, chocolate and spice notes ring in behind. Fruit, oak and tannin are beautifully in sync, probably the best for some time. Ripe, supple but firm tannins bring extra focus, and there’s plenty in the tank for the future. Beautifully in balance.

In one word – ‘epic’. Having just returned from ten days in Bordeaux tasting a vast number of youthful Cabernets, among other styles of wine, if this beauty had been slipped into the mix, it would have lounged somewhere near the top of the pile. John Riddoch is a pristine Cabernet with relatively low alcohol (top Bordeaux typically ranges from 13 – 14.5%), firm acidity and a reasonable percentage of new French oak (approximately 25%). This recipe sounds like one read straight from the fiche technique of a great Left Bank wine, albeit with a lower percentage of new oak(!). In reality, John Riddoch is more akin to an elite Saint-Estèphe than a typical New World Cabernet: don’t even contemplate Argentina, Chile, Tuscany, South Africa or California because the bulk of these wines are not even in the same ballpark! ’21 JR is pure, stunningly plush, deeply fruited but seemingly weightless and incredibly detailed. It is a superb thoroughbred with impeccable balance, and it is as relevant for an old-world geek as it is for a new-world disciple. It is time that Wynns John Riddoch sat alongside the acknowledged world Cabernet greats, and this vintage will undoubtedly help make this dream a reality.

One of the best vintages in Coonawarra for many years. Little wonder this release of the John Riddoch is one of the best since the initial release from the 1982 vintage. Aromas of violets and red berry with a slightly cherry glaze character adding further intrigue. The palate is medium weight and refined but with tremendous power and persistence. A combination of hogsheads and barriques has been used to deliver the perfect level of oak. One of the best of these I can recall.

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Wynns John Riddoch is stylish and built for the long haul. It takes a couple of days to show its true colors. It radiates with blackcurrant, gravel and dried mint aromas, with a dusting of earth all wrapped up in a gentle blanket of French oak. Composed and super refined, the wine is underpinned by a line of seductive yet firm tannins with killer length and balance to finish. It is already very approachable but with serious staying power.