The NV Champagne Brut Nature displays a copper/golden color and is made entirely from estate-grown organic Pinot Noir from Jurassic Kimmeridgian limestone soils. Disgorged in December 2023, it leaps from the glass with lush aromas of crushed berries, apricot, brioche, honey, and smoky wet stones. The palate is broadly structured, with a pillowing mousse and a rich, chalky texture. A powerfully built wine with the structure to gain in complexity over the coming 8-10 years, it will stand up to richer cuisines and carry through the end of a meal. Drink 2025-2035.

The burgeoning trend towards no-dosage champagne is a great one. It makes for champagnes that are fresher, tighter, racier and – often – more fun, like drinking an exciting youngster as opposed to sidling up to an old faithful. Dry and yet full of flavour, this drinks beautifully now and will keep the heart racing for a few years yet.

This dry Champagne forms a good contrast with the Brut Nature Rosé from the same producer. There is more weight to this wine, more richness and, in the case of this bottling, more bottle age. With its flavors of white fruit and toast, this wine is very ready to drink, with a rich aftertaste.

Black currant and cherry fruit is ripe and aromatic on the nose and palate of this fresh and harmonious Champagne. The airy mousse carries flavors of pastry dough, toasted almond, chalky mineral and ground anise. Drink now through 2018.