Looking in on the 389 can be "'can be," she says, parenthetically) a good insight into what we can expect from the upcoming Grange. Now, they are very different wines, no question, however, stylistically they have much in common and the illumination into the season that birthed the wines in each instance. Here, the 2020 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz has consummate polish and sleek tannins, imbued as they are with graphite, black tea, licorice and resin. The fruit is pure and black and chewy... gorgeous wine. And it lives for decades. This has always been a collector's dream and continues so through this vintage. Highly recommended. (EL)

A blend of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz (51/49%) sourced from vineyards in McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley and Padthway. Matured for 12 months in American hogsheads (33% new). Coming back to this Australian battler after Penfold's Napa and Bordeaux trials was something of a rude shock in the first instance. This is big, bold, beautiful and quintessentially Australian. It makes no apologies for its wealth of black fruits, almost succulent tannins, and vanillin oak.

Saturated garnet. Pungent, spice- and smoke-accented scents of black and blue fruits, licorice, violet, coconut and smoky minerals. Juicy and impressively concentrated, offering intense blackberry, cherry-vanilla and bitter chocolate flavors that become sweeter and more lively with air. Finishes smooth and impressively long, with repeating blue fruit and spice character and harmonious tannins that add shape and gentle grip. All American oak, one-third of it new. (JR)