The 2016 St Henri Shiraz is one of the finest St Henris I've ever tasted, rivaling the likes of the 1986 or 1976. It's concentrated and rich, the essence of South Australia Shiraz (although it's been lightened by the addition of 5% Cabernet Sauvignon), unleavened by any new oak. Dark and tarry, it delivers notes of espresso and black olive, plummy fruit and roasted meat. Full-bodied and dense on the palate, it ends long, dark and savory.

The latest St. Henri has all the polished, chocolaty plushness Penfolds is so known for, but this bottling is particularly comfortable in its own skin, and seems set for a longer time in cellar than Penfolds Grange. It's denser, with more earthy, olivey, charred oak notes than the brand's most famous wine—and also wildly more affordable—with fleshy plum and brambly berry fruit woven into those more barrel-derived secondary notes. Despite its velvety opulence, it's not bombastic. Tannins are muscular and spicy and also precise and refined, knitting together the plump fruit. Drink 2023–2040 and likely longer. Christina Pickard

Dark ruby garnet, purple reflections, faint ochre rim. Multi-faceted bouquet with notes of fresh cherry, a hint of roasted coffee bean, dark nougat, spices like cardamom and oregano. Juicy and elegant with round, supporting tannins – not yet fully integrated, cherry and delicate vegetal notes on the finish and a taut, mineral style. Definitely still needs time.